Monday 30 June 2014

Sisters of Mercy in Addo

Sisters of Mercy in Addo

Addo is famously associated with elephants, citrus and roses. And stunning they all are! However, as is so often the case, there is behind-the-scene work that goes unnoticed. And some Irish blood is to thank for that!
Sister Martha, Breda and Patricia work tirelessly, driving up and down the length of our Sundays River Valley, living the charism of their Sisters of Mercy foundress Catherine McAuley, “The poor need help today, not next week”.

Catherine McAuley founded this Catholic religious organisation in 1827 in Dublin, Ireland.
I had the privilege of spending some time with these wonderful nuns on a ‘normal’ day. Well, to say I am humbled simply doesn’t do humility justice.  Sr. Martha was interviewed by CapeSpan (a major citrus marketing company) who donated the buildings for their crèche, “Place of Hope and Place of Mercy” in Addo’s Valencia township. The children showed off their singing skills in three languages, were given their daily lunch provided by the Sisters and Marist Brothers and ran around their playground. Adjacent to the classrooms is a converted container that is used as a sewing room and clinic, with the future plan for a nurse to administrator essential medication for those most in need and who can’t make it to the government clinic.
My next stop was with Sr. Breda, the computer whizz! She runs 10-week courses for children and adults in Addo and Kirkwood to introduce the local population to computer technology. Generous overseas donors have made this equipment possible.
I was not allowed to accompany Sr. Patricia on her teaching visits to the prison but you only need to hear some stories to realise what a valuable impact she is making. 
All three nuns have multi-faceted jobs that take them in and out of the local communities on a daily basis. Not for the faint hearted, this requires major faith and love!
These Sisters of Mercy are all from Ireland, make a delicious Irish coffee and are quality company around the dinner table, regaling hilarious stories of home.  
To know what an asset they are, have a look at their Sisters of Mercy in Addo website and Breda Ryan facebook page. Should you wish to provide assistance in any way, contact them via this website.
Even this does not pay tribute to these women who so humbly fulfill their vocation of serving God’s people. Thank you Sr Martha, Breda and Patricia!

Wednesday 25 June 2014

Why settle in the Sundays River Valley after 1918?

Why settle in the Sundays River Valley after 1918?

The First World War ended in 1918, returning many able young men to civilian life in England without much hope of jobs. Peacetime commerce and industry had virtually come to a standstill as a result of the War Effort, and jobs were scarce. Kit and Arthur Briggs, fresh out of uniform, found themselves without prospects, as their father had died young and the family business had come to an end. They chanced upon a curious advertisement extolling the virtues of a new Settlement Scheme in faraway South African, promoted by an enterprise calling itself the Cape Sundays River Settlement Company. People were looking to the colonies for entrepreneurial opportunities, and the two brothers aged nineteen and twenty-one, announced their intention of taking part in this pioneering venture. Their mother was horrified, and asked her Solicitor for advice. Fortunately he know someone in London connected with the scheme, and so it was that in 1919 the two brothers and their mother had a meeting with Sir Percy Fitzpatrick, then in London on a promotional visit. He painted a glowing picture of the scheme, albeit still very much in its infancy, so their mother capitulated and advanced them the money to buy a 12 ha farm in Addo, from the offices of the Company in London. The property, next door to the Addo research station must have appeared convenient on the Land Map, as it was within walking distance of the Railway Station, post office, hotel, company store and bank. Sir Percy had told them that he was confident Lake Mentz would be nearing completion by the time they arrived in Addo early the following year.

The two brothers left England on 5 March 1920, sailing from Southampton harbor on the RMS Saxon. The ship docked in Algoa Bay on 25 March. Their first view of Port Elizabeth, from the deck of the ship was depressing; Kit describing it as a hideous-looking place. They stayed in Bunton’s Grand Hotel, walked around town and out to Humewood, a new seaside resort near P.E., and ended up finding the town not at all a bad place on closer acquaintance.

The following morning early found our two Pioneers having breakfast at the Railway Station, and then catching the 8:00am train to Addo. I quote from Kit’s diary, “We passed through flat, uninteresting country at first, but soon got into bush, and saw some pretty parts, entirely strange. We were struck by the greenness of it all and the entire novelty of the scenery.”

The surveyor in charge of the project took them, straight out from England, on a tour of the Addo area in his Model T Ford motorcar. They bumped over the most extraordinary roads, just cart tracks over the earth, full of ruts and deep in dust. They saw for the first time their plot of land, cleared but not ready for occupation, in other words a square 12 hectares of dusty land without a tree on it, unfenced, undeveloped and without any form of habitation. After supper they went for a short walk in the moonlight and enjoyed the glorious African night. So ended their first, dramatic day in Addo. They found the whole area rather desolate and dusty, with several outlying houses belonging to new settlers being built. It was rather depressing at first sight and they felt very disappointed and depressed, but they cheered up considerably towards evening and began making plans for the future.

The usual hot sticky March weather must have prevailed and Kit mentions several times in his diary the Great Heat. They felt too hot and tired to do anything after lunch on those first days. Having lived in Yorkshire and gone to school in Edinburgh, Addo in March must indeed have felt oppressive.

Kit and Arthur slowly settled into their new, strange environment. There was great camaraderie among these early settlers, some of whom shared the horrors of the First World War, and there was a strong pioneering spirit among them in Addo.

Dorothy and William Dyke


There were established households on two adjacent farms near the Homestead, Mr. and Mrs. Dyke and Mr. and Mrs. Elliott (now Hermiston Farm on which Chrislin African Lodge is established and owned by the Pickels family). The young wives were able to introduce a measure of domesticity to this largely male settler community, and the lads were often invited to supper. Kit talks of walks down to the river in the afternoon, bathing, supping at the Elliott’s or Dyke’s and walking back in the moonlight. One imagines these two lads going down to the river with their towel and cake of Lifebuoy soap!

Spare time during the day and over weekends was spent reading and writing letters to catch the overseas mail. There was a racecourse at Addo in those early days, as many people used horses as their only means of transport. The Addo Gymkhana Club was formed and meetings were held on Saturdays, All the settlers turned out in their best clothes to make it quite a social affair. The ladies’ race seemed to be one of the main features. On Sundays the two brothers put on collar and tie, and walked to visit friends. Many evenings were spent with Eric Swann having supper, gathering around his piano and having a singsong.

How life has changed since 1920 in Addo!

 Based upon the writings of Mr. Johnny Briggs, well-known farmer of Good Hope Farm, Selborne. With the help of his father’s dairy, Johnny gives us a fascinating account of his father, C.O.R (Kit) Briggs coming to Addo as a pioneer in 1920.


Wednesday 11 June 2014

The early Addo community and a meeting with elephants

The early Addo community and a meeting with elephants

By 1921 the Addo community was slowly starting to become more settled. More people were acquiring horses with the names like Pegasus, Toby, Dominic, Cornelius, Venus and so on. The two Briggs brothers named their property Rawdon, after a farm owned by their grandfather in Yorkshire, and acquired a two-wheeled buggy, pulled by their two horses Alban and Venus. There is also a photograph in my father’s album of a lucerne mower pulled by two oxen, but his diary ended in 1920, so it is not clear whether they owned this machine or hired it. But at least they must by then have had some producing lucerne lands to mow, grown presumable mainly in rainfall. One does not know how much water Caesar’s dam collected from natural run-off. The Company constructed the dam, originally an elephant wallow, as a stopgap to supply water to the settlers in the Addo area while Lake Mentz was being constructed. Unfortunately 1919 and 1920 were drought years in the Addo area, so that scheme also failed the first settlers. However some water must have been available because there is a photograph in my father’s album of lands being water levelled in January 1921, but where the water comes from is not clear.
Charles Rogers, Mary Elliott, Meg Mereweather, Miss Wadmore, Felicity Rogers and Elizabeth Dyke

The acquisition of horses made the young settlers more mobile and their social activities more variable. Picnics were often held on the banks of the Sundays River, wherever there was a good bathing pool. The older folk would arrive in buggies and the younger ones on horseback. In February 1924 my father joined a group riding along the ridge of the Zuurberg to Lake Mentz, taking four days to get there and camping along the way. Lake Mentz was finished by then, but standing empty while the Karoo suffered one of its periodic long droughts. My father developed an interest in hunting, acquired himself a 7mm Mauser hunting rifle, and spent a lot of time roaming the Addo bush around the Addo Heights, most of which belonged to the Harvey family. He made friends with the Bean family and often walked through the bush, over the Heights to their farm The Gorah, now better known as Schotia Safaris. He told me that once he came across of herd of elephant while walking through the bush, but fortunately they ran away.


Based on the fascinating writings of Mr Johnny Briggs, of Good Hope Farm, Selborne, based on the diary of his late father, ‘Kit’ Briggs, a Valley pioneer.


Tuesday 10 June 2014

The Happy Video: SA style

The ULTIMATE Happy Video: SA style

I love The Happy song, regardless, but 'they' have spiced it up with shots of South African people, landscape and scenes. Definitely Happy!

Wednesday 4 June 2014

Addo Elephants cross road and return to 'ancestral home'


Addo Elephants cross the road and return to ‘ancestral home’


Guy Rogers writes in the E.P Herald (7th May 2003):

A HERD of elephants was shepherded over the national railway line and the Addo-Paterson road yesterday, becoming the first jumbos to enter the area since they were shot out here 72 years ago.
The milestone event, part of the Greater Addo Elephant National Park expansion programme, began five years ago. With the population of elephant and other species growing quickly in the main 4 000ha section of the park, South African National Parks began buying up Zuurberg farmland north of the R342. With this accomplished, R5-million was set aside to fence it and some R9-million to remove old fences, buildings, reservoirs and dipping tanks. The new area, which is also about 14 000ha, has been name Nyati (Xhosa for buffalo) and two weeks ago 70 buffalo, 50 eland and about 45 ostriches were moved across the road and railway line, which divides it from the old park. Yesterday was the big day, however.
Using a helicopter, game capture trucks and a grader, 56 elephants were rounded up in five groups and gently encouraged to make the big move – over two strange human thoroughfares, back into their ancestral home.
Branches and dung were strewn across the railway tracks to help disguise their unnatural look and feel. Park manager Lucius Moolman said he was particularly grateful to the roads’ department and Spoornet for their co-operation in controlling road and rail traffic. Spoornet closed the line, the main Port Elizabeth-Johannesburg route, for five hours. In case of curious trunks, it also de-activated the overhead electric pylon. Mr. Moolman said he was thankful it had all gone so well as the other option of darting could have taken as long as five days and would have been much more stressful for the animals.
In line with the SANP policy of growing the gene pool where possible, no mature males were relocated. Instead, four bulls have been brought down from the Kruger National Park and they were due to be released to join their new harem yesterday evening.
More eland as well as red hartebeest from the Mountain Zebra National Park are due to be introduced to Nyati in tow weeks’ time.
And free range lion will be released in August into the main section of the park, completing the Big Five.


Monday 2 June 2014

Sneezewoods Thatching





Can we do it? 33 days to go before Addo peals the wedding bells for Grant & Gemma...



David, Margaret and I strolled down to Chrislin African Lodge's in-house restaurant and wedding venue, Sneezewoods this beautiful morning to admire the agility of the Sneezewoods thatchers. It is quite amazing how teamwork is the name of the game, seconded by speed and accuracy. One gentleman levelling a bundle of thatch and throwing to two men on the roof who pack it in, another trimming these bundles and another group compacting it. A new form of meditation from a levitated position?!

The pressure is certainly on to get Sneezewoods ready for the wedding in 33 days. Doors, lights, roof and trimmings.



I'll post another video next week as an update...